I’m in full support of the recent proliferation of waffle and pancake carts around town. As a lover of both breakfast and cheap meals on the street, the added availability of griddled bread products is a most welcome trend. The newest addition to the family: the Waffle Window on SE 36th just below Hawthorne.

This newbie on the block is actually attached to a venerable Portland institution: the Bread and Ink Cafe. Back when I was in college, the Bread and Ink, with its white table cloths and double digit entrees, seemed wholly unattainable. I looked upon it with both desire and disdain as a place for the privileged few. Once I finally got to eat there, I was disappointed (though somewhat relieved) to find that it wasn’t all that after all. Yes, it’s a bit fancier and classier than your usual breakfast joint, but food-wise, you can certainly do better.

But when I heard about their new venture, the Waffle Window, around the corner from the main restaurant I was willing to forgive and forget. Their goal is to make Belgian waffles the way they do in Belgium — crispy, caramelized, yeasty, chewy and hot off the iron. And sold from a window, too, though, I don’t know if that’s particularly Belgian.

When I visited it was a particularly dreary Portland day — probably not unlike the European lowlands this time of year. It wasn’t exactly ideal weather for eating outside, but it was just the kind of weather that makes one want hot sweet bread products. I went with the classic, unadorned waffle, though they have some positively baroque creations topped off with various fruits and creams and whatnot. My waffle was hot and golden brown with a sugary crust and served in a paper wrap. The first bite was a texture sensation: I’m not the kind of foodie who uses the word “mouthfeel” very often (doesn’t it just sound kind of… dirty?), but it was a texture that made me want to talk about mouthfeel — in a good way, I mean.

Now, I know what you must be thinking: Hey, don’t you dislike sweet breakfast? Well, not exactly, no. I just don’t like making a whole meal out of sweet breakfast. The great thing about thing about the window is that you can pick one up on your way to real breakfast. Genius. Just genius. Plus, these waffles are pretty small, about the diameter of a coffee saucer, so tucking one away is not going to fill you up and take room away that could be better used for savory treats.

But the very best thing about the Waffle Window was that since it was so rainy, I had to huddle under the Bread and Ink’s awning in order to eat my waffle. That put only a thin pane of glass between me and the yuppies eating their $12 benedicts. Sure, I was shivering outside, but I had a genuine Belgian waffle that only cost $2! I can’t say for sure, but I think the diners inside felt the full force of my gloating.

The Waffle Window on rainy Portland day

mmm… Belgium…